Post by Simon A.C. Martin on Apr 6, 2011 17:31:20 GMT
Tom, the wheels of an A3 are a scale 6ft 8in compared to an A2's 6ft 2in. The wheels will therefore be too big for an A2.
However, as the wheel spacing is more or less similar to an A2, using scale 6ft 2in driving wheels will solve the problem, and will fit the existing valve gear.
That said, I would say it is better to start with a loco drive A1 or A3 instead of a Gordon model, which was a poor tender drive model to begin, and not entirely accurate from the front, backwards, as a result of its Triang ancestry.
Post by captainmodesty on Apr 12, 2011 13:07:20 GMT
I know some model shops will take commissions to have the models built and painted up for you. Never did that myself but I can understand how it can be tempting. You seem to be doing a good job on your own though.
Mike who has helped me build my E2 said the best way to clean the whitemetal is not to use a brass brush but to wash it in Bath cleaner.
These shots were taken after being cleaned. Problem with using a brass brush is it scartches the metal, but dipping it in a jar filled with bath cleaner and carefully scratching with a hard paint brush lifts the powder off the metal and leaves it scratch free.
This method also cleans up any grease left over such as 'Fingers'. Its best to avoid picking up the figurines before applying the primer, for finger grease can affect the performance.
After, now its obvious they need a few more coats of the primer, but because they are experimental I will leave them as they are and paint them properly later.
Fancy guessing who, or what the figurines are?
Just need to finish work on the body, then I can apply the same technique to it. The wheels are complete.
Its been awhile since I last updated this, I have had a break from Model Engineering to focus on my Graphics Course. I'm now taking a gap year.
I have lately been working with O gauge and currently building a LB&SCR E1 tank. Same engine as the one at the East Somerset Railway; they plan to finish the overhaul and send it to the Isle of Wight in exchange for an Ivatt tender engine.
That's what I am aiming for in body shape.
This is what it was like last year compared to another model of a modern E1.
Here it is with cast Iron wheels bought at an exhibition. I will post more detailed photos of this soon
Hi Tom, the thin tank fronts can be filled with solder, no panic! Sometimes components are made a tweak to big so you can file back to a snug fit.
I need help. Is the chassis that came with the 00 E2 the wills one? Secondly if its etched does it have horn guides around the axles (a square indent mark like in your O gauge chassis above)
looking at page 3 it seems so. Please confirm this as SE Finecast because if so I'll bash in an order or two.
Good luck with the O gauge, how has it been so far?
EDIT: Thanks to our MSN convo the trith of the matter has been established and I have ordered two E2 kits and two chassis, now I need to scout about and order all the other bits n bobs I need to make it work - always a nightmare, so far the hornblocks are ordered also.
Don't worry there is progress photos. This was taken before the crank pins were soldered on.
It has been a long time since I posted about my engine, and recently had a look back on my previous pages on both PW & SiF and it looks like I start projects but never seem to finish them. Looking back I have been thinking about what I was trying to accomplish with modelling, alot of people seem to know exactly what they want as a fleet of stock or a layout.
There is no real plan, for now I'm just happy to finish the stock I have. After this there are three coaches I have to build aswell as refurbish some 7 plank wagons I in O gauge.
This is the shape I would like my engine to look. This was during the period when Douglas Marsh (Designer of the H2 Atlantic's) took over as Chief Mechanical engineer of the LB&SCR from Robert Billington (Designer of the E4 tank). Here this E1 has had an overhall, and came back from the works with a Marsh boiler(You can tell by the design of smokebox door) But the other parts such as Chimney, dome, and safety valves go back to the William Stroudley era(has both a Victorian and modern look). The original Coal bunker can be seen without the raised railings, and the wheels have a new set of wooden breaks.
As for the color of the engine I started off wanting to paint it a 'Dull Brown' as it would have been the right color to paint an LB&SCR light passenger engine at that time. But I had a look at some earlier Victorian liveries during Stroudleys era; Some of the passenger engines would have been a Improved green coat which is 55 Stepneys color, or a Dark green with black stripes that had a red stroke on each side.
So I have gone for the green with black and red stripes (not the correct coat for this era) As its my first O gauge loco, I am not too fussed about the right livery for the right time, as long as it was used on the LB&SCR. The green I'm using is a 'Rover Brooklands Green' and the livery should hopefully look like this when finished.
Fantacic looking models- hadn't encountered this thread before that I can recall when i skimmed though everyone's work initially. Seeing the difference from page 1 to your last post, its incredible to see the difference in craftsmanship. I must say i'm getting increasingly envious of O gauge. I would change from P4 - if not for the running distance problems it would mean. Do you run it in a club layout or have a got a barm space to work with Anyway very nice work, look forward to seeing your next O gauge endeavour.
Hi there! Thanks for your kind words. I've only ran my E1 once. Last year my club was holding an exhibition in a shopping center and we took the 1950s Southern layout with us. The pictures above were taken before the show, and she seemed to run okay!
You never know, O gauge might be the next step of your modelling story, all I did was buy a figurine then bought more and converted scales!
It can cost a bomb Knux, Unless you fancied doing some scratch building? This is a GW PECO wagon kit that I got cheap because there were no W Irons. So what I'm doing instead is scratch building my own.
This is one technique I learned from my friend who scratch built all his O gauge locos. Basically spray paint a template over a sheet of brass, then cut the shape out.
I prefer to use a wire saw than jeweler clippers as they bend the sheet of brass and it becomes unusable.
As you can see this would take time, but one set of W Irons will cost you ten pounds, whilst the sheet of brass I used cost three. I like the strain!
These shots were taken last year, here I have already spray painted the chassis and stuck strips of copper board on the inside.
The cast Iron wheels after being sprayed with gloss varnish.
Next step is to add the crank pins. Here I use screw in 8BA screws from the back, and the thread is filed down so to prevent the holes in the side rods from getting bigger. I really like using Tamiya tape, it protects your work if your painting, and it doesn't leave marks once you peel it off.
Wheels have now been added to the chassis, I will post an up to date photo soon so you can see how the finished crank pins look. For now this is my first attempt as wiring the motor to my chassis. (Note the green side rods is part of the LB&SCR's green livery.)
These wires were apart of the motor when I first got it. If you know your model kits, you'll probably notice whats wrong with the wiring.
Wiring up this chassis at first was hard, it even resulted in me replacing the connecting pieces of copper inside the motor. But the wiring in this photo is wrong. Ideally both the motor wires should not be soldered to the copper pads. For you see the electricity that comes from the track does not just flow onto the wheels but also to the axles, and the axles are rested onto spacers which are soldered onto the brass chassis frames; put a huge brass body on top and you lose the current.
This is a suggested solution. A connector between the motor and my brass body. Find an 8BA nut, drill out the thread on the inside, and solder it to a piece of wire. Have the nut on the same screw in which you screw the chassis to the body shell. This will also increase the height of the shells bunker, so you may want to file the 8BA nut down.
This wire is soldered onto the forward pickup on the motor. Two wires are used to connect to both copper pads and the reverse pickup (Notice the brass wire used as pickups for the wheels)
Hope I explained this okay, that's it for now will post more soon!
Post by Sleeper Agent on Aug 11, 2014 19:14:42 GMT
Those are pretty creepy- not sure I would trust them pulling my train. As I say with the money P4 demands i'm not sure G scale is too big of a difference price wise- I thought it was a 'true' scale though, but it sounds like 7 Scale is the P4 equivalent of 4mm. Do you need to build compensation chassis with side play etc like P4, or is there enough weight in the engine and width in the wheels to get round these concerns- Sorry i've never really considered it till recently, While I could never have big sets it would be nice for small scenes like sheds and shunting etc. Engines like Gordon would cost a bomb true, but engines Toby and Duck's size wouldn't be too bad from a few adverts i've seen. I did find out about S scale? its the larger equivalent of TT- it looks like a nice compromise between 4 and 7 mm, but EVERYTHING needs to be scratch built ( hense the 'S' ) - so i'm not to appealed by that- very impressive the work I saw at RailWells though I must say.It blew some 4mm work out of the water, as its just more appealing to the eye.
Anyway nice truck- always nice to see a bit of ol British ingenuity to save a few pennies Your loco project is moving forward nicely, great stuff- just about understood your motor and wire explanation - slowly getting there myself ( theory wise ).
Armada Starscream: I have a question. Is there a thread where users can post summaries of their whole head-cannon and fandom worlds? Like how they would see Sodor progress, and how they imagined things happening? Im not sure Fan THeories Explanations and Reasons is enough
Jul 28, 2020 7:29:59 GMT
splatter: Idk. That would be sick though!
Jul 28, 2020 8:18:03 GMT
9: It depends really on how you want to go about it. If you're thinking of creating your own take on Sudrian History, for example, I would suggest you try one of the fanfic-related pages of the site. Otherwise, it depends how you want to set it up
Jul 28, 2020 10:19:02 GMT
9: Although, does anyone know of any towns, villages, etc..., on Sodor that aren't connected to the Fat Controller's railway? I was thinking about using them as locations in either stories about road vehicles like Bertie, or stories that take place in history
Jul 28, 2020 10:31:40 GMT
splatter: I don't know. Considering how much of Sodor is spanned by railway lines, I doubt there'd be many villages that aren't close to or centred around a track.
Jul 28, 2020 11:01:50 GMT
Armada Starscream: 9: yes it would be on things like that, with users able to go into detail on things like fan history, backstory, and statuses of things they like to consider their own canon.
Jul 28, 2020 17:02:44 GMT
Armada Starscream: I wanted to know if there is already a thread for that, or if I or someone should create one
Jul 28, 2020 17:03:58 GMT
Parker Productions: Send your thoughts on the 'Tugs Musings and Speculations' thread
Jul 28, 2020 17:34:59 GMT
Culdee Fell: 9 As far as the Railway Series goes, Ulfstead is the obvious one.
Jul 28, 2020 18:34:51 GMT
9: Thanks! Also, did you guys happen to notice anyone we all know making a cameo appearance in a segment about Teddy Boston, in one of the latter's home movies, during a steam railway programme shown on the BBC two nights ago? I know I did!
Jul 28, 2020 23:26:34 GMT
Madness: I have my new 'Mini-Series' episode of Season 5 premiering tomorrow night. Here it is: youtu.be/qBCuETJa3xA
Jul 30, 2020 0:14:59 GMT
Vought Sikorsky: In terms of other isolated areas in Sodor, there's also Balladrine, Balladwail, Ballaswein, Cabalnoo, Cregwir, Droghan-y-Claghan, Elsdale, Kellaby, Kirkleas, & Killaban, as well as Harwick.
Jul 30, 2020 6:02:52 GMT
Vought Sikorsky: Though if you're going off TVS Canon that last one would be excluded (And most likely a few others as well considering the TVS' liking of giving stations random place-names).
Jul 30, 2020 6:03:47 GMT
fobhew22: The latest SHEB volume has just hit the Library, and its a very fittingly titled instalment considering the hot temperatures we've had in the UK today! Read 'Overheated Engines' now!
Jul 31, 2020 18:13:53 GMT
Mr. Coffey Pot: I will soon be telling you a special story of James the Red Engine featuring CynicOnRails' original story of 'Alone' on YouTube with my friends! See you there! youtu.be/wi9fvH3sNM8
Aug 4, 2020 19:39:27 GMT